NapaLife

 

A Tuscan dinner at Long Meadow Ranch

Paul Franson

It was many months ago in advance when organizers of Music in the Vineyards in Napa Valley asked me if Iíd play chef for a night and fix a meal to help raise money for that great program that brings chamber music to local wineries. Iíd never done such an event but I have a bad habit of agreeing to things that are many months off, so I said ďyes,Ē little thinking of the consequences.

 

Things started well when Ted and Laddie Hall, owners of magnificent Long Meadow Ranch, agreed to host the event at their home high above Napa Valley. In addition to a stunning home, the Hallsí winery is the largest rammed earth building in America and they have one of two frantoios (olive presses) in Napa Valley. Their property, in  fact, is like a traditional Tuscan tenuta, a self-contained estate where they grow not only grapes for their wine, but olives from 160-year-old trees, horses, cattle, chickens, vegetables and fruit. To top it off, they make Prato Lungo olive oils, one of the best in the world.

 

It would be the perfect site for a traditional Tuscan meal. I combined some research with my memories of eating in Tuscany to design a menu for a seven-course meal: bruschetta appetizer, artichoke risotto, grilled prawns, bistecca alla fiorentina (grilled giant Porterhouse steaks carved at the table) with cannellini beans, salad, cheese and dessert, all accompanied with suitable wines, notably the Hallís impressive Cabernet Sauvignon, and many courses anointed with the Hallsí oil.

 

Fortunately, Vallergaís markets donated a gift certificate to help with ingredients for the feast that couldnít come from the Halls.

 

To complement the Hallsí wine, I approached local wineries, who get thousands of these requests, but still contribute generously. Acacia donated its new limited edition Sangiacomo Chardonnay, Luna its excellent Pinot Grigio, and Schramsberg its Crťmant, a little-know but superb sparkling dessert wine.

 

Soon, Music in the Vineyards announced the program of benefit functions, and I was flattered to find that my dinner was the most expensive in the lot, higher than the events prepared by professionals and better-known writers. Of course, that might have been due to the desirable venue or to its having only 12 seats, not because of me or my cooking. Nevertheless, it was oversubscribed and we could have served more dinners, a prospect I now consider with horror.

 

After arranging these details, I pushed the event out of my mind for a bit since it was months away.

 

As time approached, however, I started thinking about the practicalities. It turns out the Hallsí home was being remodeled and we decided to use their guest cottage, which has unparalleled views of the Valley. I quickly simplified the menu, reducing the number of courses and choosing more practical courses to avoid trying to grill shrimp and giant steaks on a portable grill.

 

The risotto with grilled prawns

I decided to grill the prawns over dried grapevine canes in advance, and serve them over the risotto. And to prepare a traditional Tuscan pork roast rather than try to grill seven giant steaks when I knew that many people probably wouldnít like the almost-raw preparation Tuscans prefer. And with all this food, a sweet dessert course seemed excessive as well as untraditional.

 

When you havenít fixed a meal like this, you donít think about some problems, like place settings for 14 (the guests plus the Halls). After pondering a bit, we realized we could have two tables of seven, so the settings didnít have to match, but then there was the issue of plates: We really needed two small plates, two shallow bowls and a dinner plate. We also needed four small forks and a dinner fork per dinner. We probably should have rented them, but the Halls had two sets of suitable service and we ended up washing both plates and utensils during the meal, complicating things in the kitchen.

 

The Halls also graciously rented glasses for the wines. I fortunately had purchased two large tablecloths with maps of Napa Valley at the Wine Auction four years ago, and they got their first use beyond my own home for family and friends.

 

As we approached the event, I ran around the Valley collecting wine and  arranging for the meat. The day before, I visited the Halls at the Friday Farmers Market in St. Helena to see what they had available, then loaded up my cart at Vallergaís market for the rest of the ingredients. Friday night, I prepared the beans and biscotti, and Saturday morning, grilled the prawns, probably making my neighbors wonder what kind of person BBQís at 9 in the morning.

 

A friend came over at noon, taking on the task of ironing two large table cloths and 16 napkins, then we headed up the hill to begin work in earnest. Also helping were two volunteers, all invaluable during the busy evening. Not to forget the Halls, who helped with every detail and were incredible hosts.

 

One frustration is that some of the work had to wait until the last minute, so we enjoyed a calm before the storm, putting a last rub on the roast and starting it as we awaited the guests. They arrived at 6 and Ted took them for a tour of the winery and frantoio as well as vineyards, stopping for a little Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc at an overlook above his vineyards. About that time, we went into high gear, slicing tomatoes and mozzarella for the Caprese appetizer that seemed a better use of Laddieís tomatoes than bruschetta, and I started the risotto ― a bit prematurely as it turns out (and I feared).

 

The Tuscan roast pork

Suddenly, the hungry and tired guests were there. The string trio of Gail Sharpsteen, Beth Heid and Peggy Brady started playing and we were off. I kept worrying that the guests were waiting, buteveryone assured me that they were relaxing and having a good time.

 

Little complications arose ― the wind blew out the candles until it died, and it got chilly, but everything seemed to go well until the final wine was poured and coffee finished and our nice guests started down the very dark path to their cars.

 

We joined the musicians in a bite and some wine, then jumped into the long and tedious job of cleaning up and packing out the equipment and leftover food from the meal. Iím happy to say that almost all the food was gone, but I donít think anyone went hungry.

 

As we were completing the work we looked out and saw a beautiful orange moon rising over the eastern mountains.  Itís too bad the dinner guests missed it, but I hope they had a memorable meal nonetheless. As for me, Iíve resolved to better appreciate the chefs and workers the next time I attend a function. And not to agree to anything so far away I donít think about it carefully.

 

 

Tuscan picnic dinner at Long Meadow Ranch
 

To benefit Music in the Vineyards

 

Aperitivo

Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc 

 

Antipasti

Caprese (tomatoes, mozzarella and basil) 

Pinzimonio (raw vegetables and Long Meadow Ranch olive oil) 

Bread and Long Meadow Ranch Olive Oil 

Luna Pinot Grigio

 

Pasta

Risotto with artichokes plus grilled prawns 

 

Acacia Chardonnay

 

Primo

Arista di maiale arrosto (Tuscan pork roast)

Cannellini beans

Roasted new potatoes

Spinach in oil and garlic

Long Meadow Ranch Cabernet
 
Insalata


Dessert

Homemade biscotti, fruit, cheese 

Coffee

Schramsberg Crťmant sparkling dessert wine

 

Mineral and sparkling water

 

 

Artichoke risotto with prawns grilled over vine cuttings

 

Tuscan food is best known here for its hearty meat, bean and bread dishes, but it has a long and fruitful coastline with excellent seafood, too. The prawns in this dish would be a separate course in Italy, but they work on top of the risotto for Americans with their love for stacking food.

 

Artichokes are a staple of Italian cuisine. Raw or simple artichokes can affect the taste of accompanying wine, making it taste sweet or off. When well cooked, particularly with the added acidity of wine and lemon, this problem disappears. Also, Italians rarely serve cheese with seafood, but here the prawns are not integrated. 

 

Risotto

 

Ingredients (for four)

 

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 cup finely chopped onion (rice-size pieces)

One or two finely chopped garlic gloves 

One large or two medium artichokes

1 cup arborio or other risotto rice

1/4 cup dry white wine

3 cups hot chicken broth, preferably homemade, diluted with half water

1/2 cup shredded parmesan cheese

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley and parsley sprigs for garnish

Salt and pepper to taste.

Lemon slices

 

Peel artichoke to bottom, removing green parts and choke. Slice vertically into thin slices and place in water containing vinegar or lemon juice to keep from browning.

 

Sautť onion in olive oil for a minute or two until translucent, then add garlic and artichoke slices. Donít let brown. Add rice. Stir until rice is completely coated with oil, then add wine. Stir until it is absorbed, then add broth Ĺ cup at a time, stirring until the rice is dry before adding more. You may need more or less broth; water is okay. After 18 to 25 minutes, the rice should be done. Bite a grain. The white center should just disappear, as with pasta. Then add a little more broth so itís moist, and add the cheese and chopped parsley. Stir and adjust seasoning, noting that the cheese and commercial stocks are salty.

 

Prawns grilled over vine cuttings

 

12 large raw prawns (12 to the pound)

1/4 cup olive oil

juice of one lemon

dry vine canes (optional; you can use aromatic wood chips)

 

Peel prawns, removing digestive track if obvious, leaving on tail segments. Cover with oil and lemon juice and marinate for an hour in the refrigerator (Too long and the lemon juice starts cooking the shrimp).

 

Soak cuttings or chips in water for half an hour. Start charcoal fire (Or heat ceramic coals in gas grill.)

 

Place wood on coals. When flames die, drain prawns, then place on grill. Cook until tails and body turn red (a minute or so), then turn and complete cooking, a total of 3 to 4 minutes. Do not overcook.

 

Serving

 

The prawns can wait, but the risotto must be served immediately or it turns to mush. Arrange prawns over the risotto, garnish with parsley sprigs and serve with lemon slices.

 

Arista di maiale arrosto (Tuscan pork roast)

 

A savory pork roast with the flavors of Italy makes a festive centerpiece of a Tuscan meal, and thinly sliced leftovers are perfect for sandwiches similar to Italyís beloved porchetta panini. Itís also a low interaction course, ideal if you donít want to abandon your guests.

 

Ingredients (for eight)

 

4-lb. pork loin roast, with bone

Three garlic cloves

1/4-cup olive oil

1/2-cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley and rosemary

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Juice of 1/2 lemon

A few rosemary sprigs

 

Cut meat from ribs, but save ribs. They will be used as a rack to further flavor the roast.

 

Slice one garlic clove into slivers and using a thin knife, puncture the pork in numerous places and insert garlic slivers.

 

Finely chop garlic cloves, and combine with herbs, salt, pepper and olive oil to form rough paste. Brush pork with lemon juice, then rub with paste, making sure to get some between rib rack and roast. Place in shallow roasting pan and lay rosemary sprigs over.

 

Place in 400 degree oven for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 275 and roast for about 1Ĺ hour. Check temperature. Itís safe above 140 degrees internal temperature, but best to remove from oven at about 145 degrees; the temperature will continue to rise as it sits. Let stand at least 15 minutes before serving.

 

Itís popular to add quartered medium potatoes, preferably tossed in garlic, salt, oil and rosemary, to the pan about Ĺ hour before removing from oven. Itís usually served with simple cannellini beans.

 

 -- end --

 

 Return to NapaLife